Basic suit alterations

The following are the basic alterations I am teaching my staff, jacket and trouser alterations are documented here, and shirt alterations to come..

Jacket Alterations

1. Jacket shoulder, must sit directly on the customer's shoulders (the sleeve should fall flat against the shoulder). If the customer's shoulder pushes out, or the jacket shoulder extends beyond the arm, try on another jacket size (making the shoulder smaller is too expensive)
   
   
2. Jacket body, when the customer's top button is done up, you should be able to 'pinch' 2.5cm / 1 inch of material at the center back of the jacket. If there is more, pin the excess. If there is less, the customer will have restricted movement in the arms.
   - When the jacket is too tight, the front buttons will visibly pull on the fabric, and the back vents will open, exposing the customer's 'seat'.

N.B. A sweater will add 2-4cm to the chest when worn underneath, so winter jackets may have more excess

2. Jacket sleeve, with the customer's arm relaxed at their side, the sleeve hem must touch the dent at the base of the thumb (front), and the dent below the little finger (back, this will be lower than the front)
   - The sleeve can be reduced by 5cm, as long as the buttons are not 'working' – open button holes, when the sleeve button holes are open, the sleeve is reduced from the shoulder, max 7cm, more expensive!
   - The sleeve can be lengthened by the amount of visible material folded up inside the sleeve, usually 3.5cm

N.B. The shirt cuff should fall 1cm below the jacket sleeve, when the arm is relaxed.

3. Jacket length, with the customer's arm relaxed at their side, the jacket length should end where the customer's first set of knuckles are; at this length the jacket will cover the customer's 'seat'/bum. If the jacket is longer, fold up the jacket and pin to the correct length. The jacket cannot be lengthened.
   N.B. Blazers and non business suit jackets will finish higher than the knuckles e.g., anywhere between the knuckles and the wrist.

Trouser Alterations

1. Trouser waist, suit trousers should be worn on the hip bone (just under the belly button), jeans sit below the hip. Take in up to 5cm by 'pinching' the back of the waistband and placing a pin in the waistband where your fingers pinch.
   - Take in up to 5cm, let out up to 4cm, on suit trousers
   - Cords and chinos can be taken in, not let out
   - Jeans should not be taken in at the waist.

2. Leg length, if the waistband doesn't sit at the correct height it needs to be by the customer (pinched) at the correct height. Turn up the hem to give one break of fabric be at the front, no break/flat at the back, pin turn up at back.
   - Wide leg trousers should be hemmed no longer than the top of the heel of the shoe, or the floor if the customer is not wearing shoes.
   
   
3. Slim leg, from below the side pocket (tailor can only take in side seams) pin down the back of the trouser, up to 5cm, do not take to much in above the knee, start tapering from the knee down (as customers need room in the thigh to sit down).