Der Stil #1 - Pleated Trousers
"A house is a machine for living in." - Le Corbusier. Along with other postmodern designers, Le Corbusier attempted to create harmony of form and function, and dismiss "frivolous ornament."
While Albert Einstein looks smart, subdued and casual, Le Corbusier's style is both stylish and comfortable; double breasted blazer with patch pockets, and the perfect pair of strides - Heavy wool, pleated, straight taper to 1 1/2" cuffs.
The pleats, the drape, the bagginess... this is the future! well, for now.
Here's the first pair of pleated trousers I made, 1cm / 1.5cm deep knife pleats at each side, tapering heavily down to 4cm cuffs. I used i very light weight wool fabric - not my favorite to work with or wear - the results were good, good drape, I eventually got the desired taper (I took them in a lot..). I have to say I've never worn such comfortable suit pants, long may pleats last!
My second pair of pleated trousers, I made the maximum size of pleat with the fabric available - 2.5cm / 1.5cm deep knife pleats, this time at the center front of each leg. Even more tapered to 4cm cuffs which I hemmed 3cm higher than the first (I intend to wear these ones more with boots). I sourced a heavy weight wool which gives nice drape, and the cuffs hold the trouser leg down well. Slightly higher rise at the waist means the pleats can create more room in the hip / thigh area.
In breaking(ish) news Paris menswear shows seem to be adopting pleats and wider cuts in trousers.
What I like is that Dior has made this collection, which I think of as a move toward un-tailored, shlubish, anti fashion (in a certain sense) look so good, albeit very similar to Dior Homme fw 2007 by Hedi Slimane.
What is also interesting about this silhouette is it's affiliation with Rei Kawakubo's 'bag lady chic' and 'Hiroshima chic' she shocked Paris with back in the 80s. Kawakubo's style represented everything Parisian fashion houses saw as 'bad taste'. Once again I believe it is time to take an irreverent angle on fashion and do something outside the box!
